Lisbon

Hey Guys,

Hope things are going well wherever you are in the world! Hopefully a short and sweet update on whats been happening here over the last 2 weeks... I keep falling behind with these updates and I know that if I don't get around to them, they will become like my Africa Journals (I'm still on day 1/70)...

'Normal' London weather has resumed for the last few weeks - Rainy and Cold and we're talking about Mid July - right in the middle of 'summer'. I am really appreciating the good weather we had in May/June now and can see why Londonders get excited when they get a sunny day on the weekend - it actually allows them to go outside and do stuff! Otherwise I guess you are restricted to the indoors and indoor activities... I hear that the hardest part about living in London from an Australian's point of view is the winters - cold, and dark when you leave the house in the morning for work and dark when you leave the office at night, apparently it takes a massive toll on you psychologically. I'm doing fine right now, (in the middle of summer) but it will be interesting to see how I go come wintertime.. i don't generally mind the cold too much, but i'm not a massive fan of rain...

The last update didn't include our adventures in Lisbon - which I think has so far become my favourite European city not named London. We only spent a weekend there, but really liked it and would definitely go back if we get the chance.. So whats so good about Lisbon? Better than Paris? Better than Bruge? How could this be?

On physical attributes, its hard to explain. Paris, in the right spots (looking over the seine, looking down to the Eiffel tower) is prettier, but in general it is also dirtier and reeks of urine. The food in Paris can be amazing, but you certainly pay for quality. In contrast, Lisbon does not have as many 'OMG this is beautiful' moments, although the view looking down to Plaza de marques de pompal is nice, but instead you get a lot of 'oh, this is a nice spot' moments. It is understated, and it can suprise you. Lisbon is built on seven (I think) hills, which means that you come across some really nice view points and they lisboans have built parks in the perfect places. Lisbon isn't too crowded, and whilst some places can be a bit dirty, it has the same cobblestone, narrow streets that give a lot of European cities its medieval charm.

Food in Lisbon is also generally of a high standard, and the cheapest western European city I've been to so far (probably because the whole country is broke but whatever). The iconic Portuguese food is of course the pateis de nata (portuguese tarts) and the best ones can be found at the Pasteis de Belém - apparently they use a secret recipe from the monastery of geronimos (also worth going to just to see the amazing cloister and main chapel) next door. I had 6 tarts from 6 different place over the weekend all in the name of science of course and these were BY FAR the best. This is definitely affected by the fact that they were warm, (they sell so many, there is always some coming out of the oven) but even then, the flavour was amazing ,the egg was not too runny or too firm and the pastry was amazing crispy, giving the contrast of textures. The other thing I loved is the fact that they have these pastelerias everywhere which all sell various sweet breads, pateis de nata, and espresso coffee, just like cafes everywhere else in the world you say, but the main thing is that a most of the time you STAND. So you feel a bit peckish, don't want to sit down for 30 mins and order stuff off a menu, so you just stand at the coutner, get a pastry and an espresso and eat it then and there and then get the hell out. I love it. I don't want to have to buy food if i'm hungry and then walk and eat - its not enjoyable. Nor do i want to sit down just to have a coffee all the time unless its to catch up with a friend, so this whole experience was revelation.

Other Lisbon food highlights included 100 Maneiras - fine dining for 40 euros (7 courses). This is situated in Barrio Alto which is one of the narrow cobblestone street areas I was talking about except evey second building is a mini bar which can hold approx 30 ppl. So you have dinner and wander into the bar area which doesnt really start pumping till about midnight to 1am. Caparinhas and alcohold in general is relatively cheap and the vibe is pretty good.
We also sought out a 'portuguese chicken' shop called Bonjardims which was fantastc - despite what we think in Australia, portugal is not really famous for roast chicken nor did any ohter places claim to serve this, but this place was the exception - a whole chicken (serves 2) for 12 euros. Good crispy skin, just the right amount of seasoning - always straight from the grill (we went twice).

I found that the city was relatively quiet - apparently all the locals go to the beach during the summer so that might have been the reason, but I found the space quite nice. They have an intersting tourist tram (no. 28) which takes you on a loop around the city that is worth a ride, its goes up and down hills and takes you right to the castle sao geoge which is worth visiting for the great views of the city. I wouldn't say I was suprised by how much I enjoyed it as a few friends had already mentioned that it was a great place, but it certainly lived up to its expectations. Next time I'll have to make sure I get to the beach.

Its already midnight.. writing has once again taken a lot longer than I expect it to and I have to get up at 5:45 tomorrow morning :(

I'll have to leave Krakow (The hottest girls in Europe so far) for another day..

Good night all, and write back so I know you guys are still reading!

Miles